Teardrop trailer axles: Leaf Spring vs. Torsion

Teardrop Trailer Axles: Leaf Spring vs. Torsion

Teardrop trailer axles are normally divided into two different types: Spring axles ("leaf spring") and torsion axles. While these two types of axles perform the same basic job, the way they go about suspending and cushioning the trailer load is completely different. 

Leaf Spring Axles

This type of trailer axle will be immediately recognizable to nearly anybody who has been around motor vehicles for any length of time. Much like the name suggests, spring axles are constructed of stacked flat springs bolted to the trailer frame with the axle then bolted to the springs.

But rather than having the spring over the axle (like on a pickup truck), trailers normally have the axle slung over the springs. This decreases the ride height of the trailer, which is important for many reasons. Load stability is greater on a lower trailer, and they’re easier to load and unload as well.

Spring axles are by far the most popular option when it comes to trailer suspension systems. They’re inexpensive and relatively easy to maintain and can be found almost in stock anywhere in almost any configuration.

Torsion Axles

Rather than relying on the traditional tensioned and sprung flat steel plates of the spring axle, torsion trailer axles take a different approach entirely.

No metal springs of any type are used; rather, a series of long rubber cords are situated inside a square tube with an inner core piece that the torsion arms are secured to. This type of axle can be difficult to understand just by reading about them. In this case, a (moving) picture really is worth a thousand words:
 

As you can see, the above video shows the cross section of a torsion axle. The outer square steel tubing is the part that’s actually secured to the frame. The inner square piece is secured to the respective wheels via the torsion bars.

When the wheel moves up and down on bumpy or uneven ground, the inner bar compresses the rubber cords along the length of their bearing surface. The contact points are simply the corners and edges of the center support. 

Benefits of the torsion axle include:

  • Maintenance free design. Lube your wheel bearings and that’s it!

  • No metal-on-metal contact points

  • Independent wheel suspension

  • Quieter during travel

  • Ride height can be easily changed via adjustable torsion bars.

  • Cross-bar construction is directly mounted to the frame, and adds stiffness

  • Great corrosion resistance, as torsion axles are usually galvanized inside and out

  • Warranty typically lasts longer than leaf spring axles

Teardrop trailer brake controllers

Teardrop Trailer Brake Controllers

An electric trailer brake controller is a device that installs on the dash of your tow vehicle and activates your teardrop trailer's electric brakes when you hit the brakes in your tow vehicle. Many models are available, and they differ from how they look to the number of brakes they can power. But all of them can be divided into 2 main groups: proportional or time delayed.

A proportional brake controller senses how the tow vehicle is slowing or stopping and applies the trailer's brakes with the same intensity. So if you slam on the brakes in your tow vehicle, the controller will activate your trailer's brakes just as forcefully. With a proportional controller, you can adjust the initial braking power and aggressiveness based on your trailer's weight and your braking preferences.
A time-delayed brake controller activates the trailer's brakes with a preset intensity (power output) and rate of application (sync), both of which are determined by you. With this type of controller, there is a delay between the time that you initially apply the brakes in your tow vehicle and the time that the controller reaches maximum power output to the trailer's brakes. However, this delay can be adjusted with the sync setting.

Choosing the best Brake Controller

1) Proportional Brake Controllers

With a proportional brake controller, you can get heavy-duty emergency braking, general braking, or slow-to-an-idle braking for your teadrop trailer automatically. The intensity with which your trailer brakes are activated and the rate at which they are applied are dependent on the deceleration of your tow vehicle. This means that, unlike time-delay controllers - which send the same amount of preset power to your trailer brakes every time - proportional controllers are able to adapt to every braking situation differently. So if you slam on the brakes in your truck, your trailer brakes will activate with the same extreme intensity. And if you merely slow down as you approach a red light, your trailer will gradually brake in the same manner.

A proportional brake controller senses when and how your tow vehicle brakes by means of an accelerometer or an internal inertia-based sensor. The accelerometer or sensor responds to the deceleration of your tow vehicle as you brake by signaling the controller to send out enough power to your trailer brakes so that they are activated with an intensity that matches. The result is uniform braking across your towing setup. No push-pull action - just smooth, proportional braking every time.
Pros

  • Smooth, quick braking

  • Less wear on both vehicle and trailer brakes

  • Increased braking efficiency

Cons

  • More expensive than time-delayed controllers (though the cost difference between the 2 types has been decreasing)

  • Not as easy to install as a time-delayed controller


2) Time-Delayed Brake Controllers

A time-delayed brake controller applies your trailer's brakes when the brake pedal in your tow vehicle is engaged. Every time you apply the brakes in your tow vehicle, a signal is sent - via the brake switch - to the brake controller. The controller then sends power out to your trailer brakes to activate them with an intensity set by you, at a rate determined by you. Both the amount of braking power (output) and rate of application (sync) can be adjusted to suit your preference, the road conditions, type of trailer, and size of the load. To determine which levels are best for your application, you must test out your towing setup and choose what feels best.

A time-delay controller is so named because there is a delay between the time that you initially apply the brakes in your tow vehicle and the time that the controller reaches maximum power output. Unlike a proportional brake controller, which activates your trailer's brakes based on the deceleration of your tow vehicle, a time-delayed controller sends power out in the same way, with the same gradual delay, no matter the braking situation. Although this delay always exists, it can be adjusted by changing the sync setting.

A time-delayed brake controller doesn't rely on sensing the braking motions of the tow vehicle. This allows you to mount the controller at any angle.

Pros

  • Easy to install - can be mounted at any angle

  • User friendly

  • Low profile

Cons

  • Uneven brake wear between tow vehicle and trailer

  • Chance of brake pulsing when hazard flashers are used


Proportional Brake Controllers vs. Time-Delayed

Similarities:

  • Allow the user to adjust the maximum braking power to match the weight of the trailer being pulled

  • Have a manual override trigger that can be used to apply only the trailer brakes

  • Have the same wiring configuration for installation

Differences:

  • Cost: Time-delayed controls are typically less expensive, although recent advances in proportional brake controls have narrowed the cost difference.

  • Braking performance: Time-delayed controls always send the same braking power to the trailer brakes. Proportional brake controls will vary the braking power based on how quickly the tow vehicle is stopping, which produces a smoother braking action.

  • Wear and tear: Time-delayed brake controls cause more wear on either the trailer or vehicle brakes because one or the other will be doing the majority of the braking. Proportional controls reduce wear by spreading the braking power evenly.

  • Mounting: Time-delayed brake controls can be mounted in any position and at any angle. Proportional controls will typically need to be mounted within a certain range, such as within 70 degrees of level, to work properly.

  • Calibration: Time-delayed brake controls typically will not require calibration. Some models of proportional brake controls need to be calibrated to work properly. However, most of the newer models are self-calibrating or have a very simple calibration, so they are nearly as easy to set up as time-delayed models.

  • Size: Time-delayed brake controls have traditionally been smaller and slimmer than proportional controls, but newer models of proportional controls come in shapes and sizes very similar to time-delayed controls.

  • Use: Time-delayed brake controls are best for the casual user. Proportional controls should be considered if the trailer will be towed often because these controllers operate well in diverse towing conditions and produce less wear on the braking systems of the tow vehicle and trailer.

  • Safety: Proportional brake controls provide an additional level of safety because they will automatically ramp up to full power if the tow vehicle makes an emergency st

 

Teardrop Trailer Hitch Ratings, Hitch Sizes?

Hitch Classes, Hitch Sizes?

What are the Different Hitch Classes?

 Class I (Not Recommended!)

  1. Class I hitches are weight carrying (WC) hitches rated up to 2000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 200 lbs.

  2. A Class I hitch usually has a 1-1/4" square receiver opening.

  3. A higher class drawbar does not increase the towing capacity of the hitch.

  4. Class I hitches usually attach to the bumper, truck pan or vehicle frame.

 Class II (OK.)

  1. Class II hitches are weight carrying (WC) hitches rated up to 3500 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 300 lbs.

  2. A Class II hitch usually has a 1-1/4" square receiver opening.

  3. A higher class drawbar does not increase the towing capacity of the hitch.

  4. Class II hitches usually attach to the bumper or vehicle frame.

 Class III (Great!)

  1. Class III hitches are weight carrying (WC) and also are weight distributing (WD) depending on the vehicle and hitch specifications.

  2. Class III hitches used as weight carrying are rated up to 6000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 600 lbs.

  3. Class III hitches used for weight distributing are rated up to 10,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1000 lbs.

  4. A Class III hitch usually has a 2" square receiver opening.

  5. A higher class drawbar does not increase the towing capacity of the hitch. To use this class of hitch for weight distribution requires a weight distribution system.

  6. Class III hitches attach to the vehicle frame only.

 Class IV (Whoa Daddy!)

  1. Class IV hitches are weight carrying (WC) and weight distributing (WD) hitches depending on the vehicle and hitch specifications.

  2. Not all Class IV hitches are rated to be both. See the specific hitch for that information.

  3. Class IV hitches used as weight carrying are rated up to 10,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1000 lbs.

  4. Class IV hitches used for weight distributing are rated up to 14,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1400 lbs.

  5. A Class IV hitch usually has a 2" square receiver opening.

  6. A higher class drawbar does not increase the towing capacity of the hitch. To use this class of hitch for weight distribution requires a weight distribution system.

  7. Class IV hitches attach to the vehicle frame only.

Determining the rise or drop for your teardrop trailer hitch draw bar (aka ball mount).

How to Measure for Hitch Rise and Drop

With the many different tow vehicles and trailers out there, it's rare that any vehicle and trailer line up perfectly for towing. They come with different amounts of rise and drop to compensate for differences in height, and they come in different lengths to position a trailer closer to or farther from the tow vehicle. To find a ball mount (draw bar) with the proper dimensions for your tow vehicle and trailer, you need to measure. Read about how to measure, below.

(Step 1) Measure Hitch from ground to top of receiver

For safe and comfortable towing, the trailer should always be as level as possible. A High Camp teardrop trailer has a coupler height of 12" from the ground (see photo 1 below) .  Unless the distance from the ground to the top of the receiver tube on the vehicle hitch (see photo 2 below) is roughly 12", you will need a ball mount (drawer bar) that has a Rise or Drop to make up the difference. With the tow vehicle parked on level ground, measure from the ground to the top of the receiver opening. 

(Step 2) Subtract coupler height from vehicle hitch height
 


If the hitch height is greater, use a ball mount with a drop; if the coupler height is greater, use a ball mount with a rise. Select a ball mount that has a rise or drop measurement that is closest to the difference between the hitch and coupler heights.

Car and Truck towing ratings for teardrop trailers

Tow Ratings for Teardrop Trailers

We often get asked about what new cars can tow a High Camp teardrop trailer and luckily Trailer Life magazine publishes an annual listing of Towing Capacities for new vehicles.  This is a great resource if you are thinking about upgrading your tow vehicle or are just checking your existing car or truck's towing capacity.  You can check your vehicle's towing capacity rating by clicking the link below for your car's model year:

(2017) http://webcontent.goodsam.com/trailerlife.com/digital_editions/TrailerLifeTowGuide2017.pdf

(2016) http://webcontent.goodsam.com/trailerlife.com/digital_editions/TrailerLifeTowGuide2016.pdf

(2015) http://webcontent.goodsam.com/trailerlife.com/digital_editions/TrailerLifeTowGuide2015.pdf

(2014) http://prodcontent.s3.amazonaws.com/trailerlife.com/digital_editions/TrailerLifeTowGuide2014.pdf

(2013) http://prodcontent.s3.amazonaws.com/trailerlife.com/digital_editions/TrailerLifeTowGuide2013.pdf

(2012) http://dcd96xmek71bc.cloudfront.net/trailerlife.com/2012_towing_guide_lo_res.pdf

(2011) http://www.trailerlife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/DigitalTLTowGuide2011.pdf

(2010) http://www.trailerlife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/DigitalTLTowGuide2010i.pdf

One thing to note: Trailer Life's ratings only include vehicles with a minimum towing capacity of 2,000 pounds. For anyone thinking about upgrading their tow vehicle for getting a teardrop trailer, we believe this is a good starting point as well.  While a car or truck with a 1,500 pound towing capacity will do the job, having a little more towing capacity is always preferred.  

If you aren't sure what your car or truck can tow, just email us, or give us a call and we can look it up for you!